Protect Your Orchids from Insects and Pests
February 24, 2009
Filed under Garden
Orchids are exquisite exotic plants that produce breathtaking flowers. Orchids are located in tropical and subtropical locations around the world. There are some exceptions to this scenario however. Most have an aerial root system that are attached to the trunks of trees in their natural environment.
Orchid Pest Threats
There are several types of pests that can kill orchids, some of the most common are aphids, mealy bugs, mites, millipedes, centipedes and snails, among others. The climate and area would depend on which type of pest could invade.
Aphids suck the fluid from the Orchids, the damage comes from this bug actually biting into the plant. The tissue will experience necrosis, grow yellow and rot. Mealybugs are white or pink, they infest the plant and feed off of them. These are some of the more difficult pests and require immediate attention when discovered.
Scale bugs are white and look like they have scales. They are a frequent orchid pest. They feed off the orchid and grow quickly and get larger, harder scales. The males are winged and breed with the females. Mites are another threat, the most typical being the spider mite, that form webs on the plant and you may never even see the spider.
Millipedes and centipedes eat the rots of the plants they infest. They are quite harmful to orchids and centipedes are potentially dangerous because they can sting humans. Slugs and snails are very similar in their destruction of orchids by eating them and they are common orchid pests. Whiteflies rank as one of the three peskiest orchid pests along with aphids and spider mites.
Millipedes and centipedes will actually eat the roots of the orchid and cause rotting. They are very harmful and dangerous to human beings because they sting. Snails and slugs are similar to millipedes, in that they destroy the flower by eating the roots. Whiteflies, however, rank as the top threat to orchids.
Solving Orchid Pest Problems
There are many natural methods which you can employ to control orchid pests. You can get a natural house plant pest enemy of the pest in question and release it on the infected orchid. You do not need to use a pesticide for this reason and in the process you are not harming the environment either. If you have a number of pests infecting your plants however, you may want to consider going the route of pesticides.
You need to make sure you get the pesticide that is more natural and less environmentally harmful. This approach allows you to protect the world for future generations. Netting and protective barriers also work as another natural alternative in preventing orchid pest infestation in your garden.
Why Automatic Pool Cleaners Are Awesome
February 24, 2009
Filed under Landscaping
Its great to have your very own swimming pool right in your backyard. There is nothing like jumping into a clear cool pool on a hot summer day. You can enjoy swimming in your backyard with privacy and comfort. Maybe you want to exercise, swimming is a great way to exercise without the mess of sweating.
However pools do require maintenance and that means chores. No one wants to slave over the pool cleaning it and vacuuming it all day. It sucks but there is a solution that can help.
But what is an automatic pool cleaner? It’s a device that literally vacuums your pool for you. And now more than ever they have become more affordable. Before there were only a few to choose from which made them expensive, but now there are plenty you can use in your swimming pool.
Nowadays there are hundreds of different types of automatic pool cleaners that have flooded the marketplace. You can get yourself an automatic cleaner for about $50 or you could get a really nice one for about $1,000. But whats the difference.
A pressure-side automatic pool cleaner is the most popular. It uses the return line in your pool to push debris into a bag. That bag can then be emptied. It creates a vortex by pushing the water flow up and into a bag causing debris to be lifted off the floor and into the bag.
If you choose a suction side cleaner then you use the filter skimmer to suck the debris of the bottom of your pool. It works just like when you manually vacuum your pool except it moves around by itself. I do not recommend these since they are hard to setup and don’t have an easy to empty bag.
If you want a really good vacuum then go for the robotic style. It sucks debris off the bottom of your pool and into a bag without using your filter. Robotic cleaners run off electric so you don’t have to keep your pool running to vacuum your pool. It’s the way to go.
How To Grow Your Own Vegetables
February 23, 2009
Filed under Garden
With the cost of life’s necessities including food shooting up almost daily, learning to grow your own vegetables can be a smart choice. Growing a vegetable garden can be undertaken quickly and easily. Not only will it save you money, you can be assured of high quality. fresh vegetables that you know your family will enjoy.
Starting your own garden isn’t an incredibly difficult thing for people to do, but it isn’t a piece of cake either. By following a few common sense rules, you’ll soon be enjoying the “fruits” (and vegetables) of your labor. If this is your first time starting a vegetable garden than you will want to start off small. This will give you an idea of how to garden and all of the hard work and time that it requires. You may even want to consider using containers to grow your own vegetables.
To be able to grow your own vegetables, you should locate your vegetable garden in an area that gets six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day. A spot near the house may be desireable, but consider any shade or trees that might block out the sun.
Having the right soil is important. There are certain types of soil that are more difficult to grow things in. In order to improve the soil you should mix it with organic compost or a high quality fertilizer. It is best to mix these materials into the soil about 2-3 weeks before planting.
If you want your plants to grow well, you must be sure to have good drainage. You don’t want your vegetable garden standing in water after a soaking rain. If your plants stand in water, too long, they may drown. Be sure to dig drainage ditches around your garden. Another option is to use agriculture tile drain pipes to facilitate drainage.
You can get vegetable seed just about anywhere that gardening tools are sold. You can also get seeds from online stores and catalogs. When you look through these, heirloom seeds and other valuable seeds may be a nice choice. Also, be sure to buy proven stock. In that way, you will give your garden an added boost for success.
Keep in mind where you would like to place each of your plants. If you place markers first, you will be able to make nice, straight rows. Be sure to place your plants at even intervals. Be careful not to put them too close together. You want them to have plenty of room to grow and thrive.
Where to Find Garden Tools
February 23, 2009
Filed under Garden
Courtyard work can be a difficult task but it is greatly worth the endeavour. By making your yard attractive plus well taken care of, you may be satisfied to have visitors come to your residence, and you plus your family can enjoy wasting time together in the yard. Despite the fact that accomplishing a well-kept patio is a big accomplishing, you may relieve your work with the correct garden tools.
There are piles of different garden tools out there that may help you maintain the pure appearance of your lawn . garden tools are essentially separated into two different kinds: Hand Tools and Power Tools.
Hand tools were actually developed back in the early days of mankind. That being said, these garden tools are still some of the most popular on the market. Some of the more common ones are a spade, pitchfork, garden rake, and garden hoe.
Firstly, the instruments were really made of stone plus bone, but as our technology has increased the garden tools have developed more and more efficient. Mainly hand tools are now made out of incredibly long lasting metals.
Power tools began to go forward once technology changed. Maybe the most popular of the power garden tools is the grass mower. This instrument made trimming your lawn go faster and easier than ever before. Nonetheless, this was only the being of the growth of garden tools.
These days there are terrific electric garden tools on the market like irrigation sprinklers, hedge trimmers, and leaf blowers that will help any landowner keep their yard good-looking.
Types Of Ivy Plants
February 23, 2009
Filed under Garden
If someone plans to grow one or more plants at the same time, the chances are likely that most of them will be described under the heading of foliage plants. While not as showy as other flowering plants that have been previously discussed, they make up for what they lack, by being able to be easily grown, simple propagation, and easily acclimating to any environment they live in.
Choices offered as to size, leaves form and color is almost an endless possibility. The plants we have discussed are capable of being grown in any of environment or region in the country with relative ease and are easily found in many places.
Dumb cane is a member of the Arum family of species, it has a white sap which when chewing the leaves can cause speechlessness and pain for short periods of time. There are several kinds of this plant species, the leases are splotched with white or yellow. They can grow up to several feet tall and have leaves of up to a foot in length. There are often than not, few leaves of any plant. These plants can be placed near African Violets because they too, require high humidity and a temp of around 70F, constantly to grow properly. They can be easily propagated by simple stem cutting.
English ivy is a common house plant, perhaps the most common in the country. People who have no other house plants oftentimes, have a pot of ivy growing somewhere in the house. First, and most importantly, it is very versatile and can be trained to climb or vine with relative ease. This feature gave the idea to landscapers to tap the possibilities of using English Ivy in hillside landscape designs. Secondly, its simple to care for and will survive some very extreme conditions indoors and even outdoors when used as a landscaping plant. Ideally, most varieties prefer a moist, cool and shady environment.
In theory, they prefer a normal room temp and will be happy, especially if you mist the frequently to increase moisture levels and clean the leaves from any dust or insects. Ivy is easily propagated by stem and leaf cutting. There are many varieties of ivy, the number is too great to list all of them. The five pointed leaves trail or climb, others grown in a shrub form, some have leaves that are bordered by white or mother midget types. If you find yourself interested, you should take a visit to your local floral shop or nursery and look at the various types of ivy available. You will be surprised at the amount of shapes and forms this plant has.
The Importance of Water to Your Houseplants
February 22, 2009
Filed under Garden
The plant may appear to be watered, but actually more harm has been done than good. Much better will be the weekly thorough soaking of the pot, until water actually comes out of the hole at the base.
But note this excess of watering. It comes through the hole at the base of the pot and more or less fills the saucer or other container. Yet after an hour or so this excess moisture has once again been absorbed by the pot. If the soil were thoroughly clamp this could not occur. So this can be one guide to us : allow water to trickle through the base of the pot, leave it there for up to an hour and then throw the surplus away. This way one can be sure that adequate water has been applied, but that the soil in the pot is not completely waterlogged, in other words that air space is left for the plant roots to breathe.
Even better results are obtained by soaking the pot thoroughly by submersion. In this case the pot is taken to a bucket or sink of water and submerged entirely, even the plant itself going under water in certain circumstances. If the plant is left there until air bubbles cease to rise from the soil surface this will mean that every air space will be filled with water.
To be taken into account are such factors as the age of the plant, its situation in the home, the warmth of the home, the presence or absence of draughts, the available light, the type of container in which it stands and several other questions. One would imagine that cacti and succulents would be the easiest of all plants to water, knowing as everyone does that they are desert plants demanding maximum amounts of bright light and some degree of warmth. Yet cacti are dying by drowning all over the world.
So obviously a tiny trickle of water into the pot will have no real and lasting effect, for it does not help to get rid of this excess carbon dioxide. And by overwatering the healthy oxygen is denied any possibility of coming into contact with the roots as the spaces are either filled with water or with the constantly out- coming carbon dioxide.
Now when this water courses through the soil it drags clown after it by suction a certain amount of air. Both water and air are essential to the life of the plant roots.
What kind of popcorn pops the most?
February 22, 2009
Filed under Garden
Have you ever wondered how those corn kernels turn into popcorn? Popcorn is a corn kernel converted through heat.
Corn is cleaned off the cob, stored and preserved. Each kernel has a little water or moisture locked inside of them. So when you start to heat the popcorn the pressure builds up inside the corn to the point where it has no where to go. The moisture inside the kernel converts into steam and the pressure increases exponentially. The pressure builds up and the starch starts to expand to the point where the kernel explodes. This explosion gives birth to the tasty treat we call popcorn.
Large, tender and tasty popcorn is in demand. How do we guarantee our corn kernel produces these tasty treats? Unfortunately this is out of hands and the responsibility is squarely placed on the farmers.
When the conr is harvested its moisture content is 16-20%. After harvesting the corn it must be dried so that it only contains 12-15% of water.
Not every corn pops. Different varieties of corn have different levels of moisture content or water storage capabilities. Little or no water content will result in no popcorn. popcorn is formed through the expansion of water into gas which increases the pressure in the corn. The pressure needs to be released which subsequently gives birth to the tasty popcorn.
The anatomy of the corn kernel is quite simple. The corn kernel contains 3 main parts which play a significant role in the production of popcorn. The pericarp, which is the hull or simply the outer covering, the germ which is the part that sprouts and the endosperm which contains the starch that expands.
So how does the popcorn withstand the build up of pressure? As mentioned above, corn has a strong pericarp which is the outer covering. This strong, protective layer acts like a seal, just like a sealed plastic bag would inflate when micro waved. The steam within this cover builds up to the point where it expands and eventually explodes. If the pericarp of the corn was damaged or cut the corn will not pop.
The expansion or popping of the corn takes place in the tightly packed endosperm. Endosperm development determines the dimension and also taste of the popcorn. Once the pressure builds up to about 9 atmospheres, the pericarp or the shell of the corn explodes. The gelatinized starch granules found in the endosperm do not explode, but expand into the cooler room temperature and solidify into the thin, fluffy like bubbles that we call popcorn.
Different varieties of corn have been genetically engineered for the purpose of producing popcorn. The white and yellow hull-less are the most common. As soon as the kernel contains 10-15% of moisture it can be used to produce popcorn.
Some Free Tips on Indoor Plants Decorating
February 22, 2009
Filed under Garden
They are merely practical hints on the placing, tending and training of plants which can enable the housewife or home owner to display his or her talents and personality and at the same time obtain greater value and reward from the plants in the home.
Let trailers hang by placing them on a pedestal, shelf, for they look better, more natural this way and give greatest value. Use sprawlers to cover the bare soil area of surrounding pots or to writhe uninhibited across a mantelpiece. Judicious pinching out of misplaced or too strong shoots will keep a bush looking like a bush and encourage a spear-like plant to remain looking this way.
Too often an elegant, upright sansevieria or even aspidistra over years of careful tending becomes a bush or a forest of spears and loses its identity. Divide these crowded plants so that they retain their basic shapes.
Some of our easiest and most tolerant plants are climbers.
Regard, for example, the cissus, rhoicissus, ivy, several philodendrons and the dramatic monstera, to say nothing of the huge and rampant tetrastigma. All of these can be trained to cover a wall, to climb to the ceiling and follow the wall around the room. One tetrastigma in our possession once grew near the front door, climbed to the ceiling, was led along to the stairway, climbed up the stair well and was stopped just before it invaded one of the bedrooms. One ten year old cissus still grows happily in a Victorian washbowl without drainage holes. It frames an arch between kitchen and dining-room and shows no signs of its hardships suffered when building operations dictated its removal and storage, twisted and tangled like a cat-teased ball of knitting wool, for several months before being unravelled and trained once again along its almost invisible supports of cotton.
A great chlorophytum stands six feet high in the bowl of an old oil-lamp standard, its elegant green and white striped grass like leaves arching into the air and its long stems bearing the little white flowers and the young plants at their ends swooping outwards to hang in graceful clusters.
Fall Vegetable Gardening Ideas
February 21, 2009
Filed under Garden
When the majority of people think of vegetable gardening, they instantly associate it with planting seeds in the spring and then harvesting the rewards in autumn. This does not mean, however, that gardening vegetables in the fall is not an option, too. Some plants are quite well disposed for being gardened during the fall.
The cooling temperatures of the fall do not mean that you have to give up on gardening until next spring. Take the following suggestions into consideration this fall and keep your garden producing delicious vegetables through autumn.
Things To Consider
Research is the essential first step when it comes to fall gardening. Learning more about the weather patterns in your local area during the fall is important, as is finding out when the average first frost is in your zone. Zones were determined be gardeners in an effort to categorize which plants can be grown in which parts of the country. Plants receive a rating based off of which zones they are best suited for.
You can easily find out what zone you live in by looking online for growing zone maps. These sites may also have suggestions for what types of plants are recommended for each zone. This will be important information for you to have as not all vegetables will grow well in every zone, especially in the fall. Some of the best vegetables for fall gardening include beets, broccoli, lettuce, carrots, cabbage, onions, and radishes among others.
Planning
The key to successful fall gardening is in the timing. This involves figuring out the best time to plant your vegetables so that they can mature before the first frost. Your seed packets will indicate the maturation time of each vegetable. You’ll also need the estimated first frost date for your growing zone as discussed above. Take the maturation period and add approximately 21 days to it.
To calculate when to start planting, take the maturation time plus twenty one days and count backwards from your first frost date. Keep in mind that certain plants that grow well in the fall will not do well outside in the heat of summer. If you need to plant while it is still warm outside, leave your plants inside your home for the first thirty days.
Climbing Roses in containers
February 21, 2009
Filed under Garden
Although it is invariably categorized Hybrid Teas, this variety is so vigorous that it would be better and more appropriately transferred to the shrub types. It has been grown widely as a windbreak hedge, and some years ago, when visiting a customer at Angmering in Sussex, I found a hedge backing directly on to the beach that was every bit of 10ft (3m) high, covered in bloom, and obviously cocking a snook at the salt-laden breezes! As you are asking for a barrier, this is how I suggest that you deal with this hedge from now on. As soon as the growth buds begin to swell next spring, I would prune back all the older stems very hard to sideways-pointing buds, ideally no more than 1 ft (0.3m) from ground level, leaving no more than three or four stems, and these reduce by about a half. The result of this will be most vigorous reaction, with strong stems being thrown up from low down. What you do with them depends on the kind and height of hedge you are looking for. You want a barrier, and presumably one with lots of blooms, so, as the vigorous stems grow tall and while they are still soft and pliable, bend them down and tie them together with stems from the adjacent plant so that they lay horizontal and looped.
You will probably have enough stems to make three or more loops between each pair. Arrange these at different heights about lft (0.3m) apart, and as the stems grow on keep them tied down to maintain a level height. Of course, if you have a fence to tie to so much the easier, or you can run some wire along rather like fruit training wires, but this is not essential. The effect of the bending down will be to induce the plant to fight back and produce bloom, and as side shoots form, these should be bent back and looped under in the same way. Very soon your hedge will be thick and quite impassable.
Roses do not like root disturbance, and while it may be possible during the dormant season to turn out and replant a miniature rose in a small container, you are hardly likely to be able to do this with a container of this size. The gradual build-up of nutrient and trace element deficiency therefore is a distinct possibility. This is a very big argument in favour of using an organic source like Humber and, because it is practical on a soil surface area of this dimension, maintaining a mulch cover.
Obviously, we cannot remove the redundant stems in one piece, they have to be traced out from the first cut and removed piecemeal. Almost inevitably, you will be bound to miss pieces here and there, but not to worry, they will show out in a day or two as they wilt. Every piece must come out because leaving bits to die and remain is to ask for coral spot fungus to put in an appearance.
Grown in open ground, this problem is not so likely to occur, and if you follow the reasoning contained in the chapters dealing with feeding and mulching, there is no reason why you should not derive a lot of enjoyment and satisfaction from growing miniatures. One salient fact you should always bear in mind is that these little roses may be reduced in size, but the pests and diseases are not and, relative to the tiny tots, it is like having greenfly as big as bumble bees!
The need to protect with insecticides and fungicides is therefore all the greater. Otherwise treat them as conventional bushes.

